Rousseau



March 26, 1963 M. ROUSSEAU 3,082,653

TOOL FOR OBTAINING LINING 0R PACKING FOR A BRASSIERE Original Filed Aug.28, 1957 5 Sheets-Sheet 1 FIG! FIG. 5

FIG.6

ATTORNEYS March 26, 1963 M. ROUSSEAU 3,082,653

TOOL FOR OBTAINING LINING OR PACKING FOR A BRASSIERE Original Filed Aug.28, 1957 5 Sheets-Sheet 2 Qll v (If. m M

{fr/w f' WWW ATTORNEYS March 26, 1963 M. ROUSSEAU TOOL FOR OBTAININGLINING OR PACKING FOR Original Filed Aug. 28, 1957 A BRASSIERE 5Sheets-Sheet :5

FIG.4 bis FIG.8

%WBZZ jpmdaliglENToR. WiiW EI'TORNEYS March 26, 1963 M. RQUSSEAU3,082,653

TOOL FOR OBTAINING LINING 0R PACKING FOR A BRASSIERE Original Filed Aug.28, 1957 5 Sheets-Sheet 4 ATIOR NEYS March 26, 1963 M. ROUSSEAU TOOL FOROBTAINING LINING OR PACKING FOR A BRASSIERE Original Filed Aug. 28, 19575 Sheets-Sheet 5 ATTORNEYS United States Patent Gfiice 3,082,653Patented Mar. 26, 1953 3,032,653 TOOL FOR GBTAINING LINING R PACKING FORA BRASSIERE Maurice Rousseau, 41 Rue de La Tranchee, Poitiers, FranceGriginal application Aug. 28, 1957, Ser. No. 680,792, now Patent No.3,041,903, dated July 3, 1962. Divided and this application Jan. 6,1960, Ser. No. 818

3 Claims. (Cl. 82--12) The present invention relates to a means andmethod for forming linings or packing for brassieres and is a divisionof application Serial No. 680,792, filed August 28, 1957, now Patent No.3,041,903 issued July 3, 1962.

This invention relates to an improved tool for making lining or packingfor a brassiere.

An object of the invention is to provide a tool for cutting outbrassiere paddings or linings in a single piece on a lathe with thepiece having several easily detachable layers. One or more layers may beremoved at will so that the brassiere cup may be properly filled.

Another object of the invention is to provide a tool for cutting outsmall dimensioned packing on a lathe useful as false breast nipples fora woman whose bust does not fill up the point of a brassiere.

Another object of the invention is to prove a tool for obtaining theafore-mentioned linings or packings by means of a lathe, in a simple andpractical manner.

The invention also applies to the characteristics herein after mentionedand to their various possible combinations.

A device according to the invention is shown by way of non-restrictiveexample in the attached drawings, in which:

FIGURE 1 is a longitudinal sectional view illustrating a method forcutting out a lining or packing.

FIGURE 2 is a longitudinal view showing a method for cutting out of ahollow lining or packing.

FIGURE 3 is a longitudinal sectional view showing a method for cuttingout linings for use as false breast tips from the cuttings left overs.

FIGURE 4 is a longitudinal sectional view showing the successive cuts ofparallel-faced linings or packings.

FIGURE 4 bis is a longitudinal sectional View showing a lining withseveral layers.

FIGURE 5 is a view showing the extreme curvature shapes that can begiven to the surface of revolution.

FIGURE 6 is a longitudinal sectional view showing the cutting of aspherical tip at the apex of the false breast.

FIGURE 7 is a longitudinal sectional view showing a padding with anipple.

FIGURE 8 is a view illustrating the cutting of nonparallel-facedlinings.

FIGURES 9 and 10 are front and top views of the tool with which liningsare made.

FIGURE 11 is a view of the end of the tool.

FIGURE 12 is a view of the tool set in the case where the mass ofmaterial is rotatively mobile.

FIGURE 13 is illustrative of a preferred form of the invention whereinthe tool is rotatively mobile.

FIGURES l4 and 15 are front and top views of alternative cutting tools.

The lining or packing shown in FIGURE 1 is a solid cup suitable, forexample, for a person who has undergone an operation; this cup isobtained by cutting out a mass of cylindrical flexible material 1 suchas polyurethane foam along a first surface of revolution with a circulararc profile 2 centered at A Then, a second surface of revolution with acircular arc profile 3 centered at B is cut.

Thus, two surfaces of revolution are obtained, one concave 2, the otherconvex 3 forming between them the cup which forms the padding. Thesurface 2. is intended to rest against the chest, the surface 3 formingthe external shape of the artificial breast.

The surfaces of revolution are obtained by introducing a thin tool intothe material, this tool being tapered and with a cutting edge at itsend: are rotated relative to each other: the point of the toolpenetrates only as far as the cylinder axis at the point S along thetrajectory LS. It is the rotational movement which effects the completecutting out along SL symmetrical with SL in relation to the rotationaxis of the cylinder 1 of flexible material.

The center B of the surface 3 is offset in relation to the axis of thecylinder, which enables a profile of two intersecting circular arcs tobe imparted to the external surface of the lining.

In the case of FIGURE 2, a hollow lining 5 is obtained intended tocontain an under-developed breast, this lining being achieved byeiiecting in the cylinder:

(a) The cutting of a surface of revolution 2 similar to that of FIGURE1;

(b) The cutting out of a surface of revolution 4 by a method similar tothe cutting of the surface 3 but of a smaller dimension than surface 3;and

(c) The cutting of the surface of revolution 3.

In the case where a lining is desired to be obtained, as in FIGURE 2,cuttings 6, will be found to left over.

These cuttings 6 may be advantageously used for making breast tips (orreduced sized cups, utilised for women who do not entirely fill out thetip of their brassiere).

To make the latter (FIGURE 3), it is only necessary to precede thecenter cut B by successive cuts with respective centers B B B The cups 77 7 7 are thus obtained.

In other words, the rational method of cutting out cups and additionalbreast tips is as follows:

(a) plotting the center axis A (b) plotting in their order, arcs 4 4. 44 of centers B B B B (this latter are terminating the series of b'easttips and preparing the internal face of the lining itsel (c) plottingthe are 3 of the center B, which determines the normal lining 5.

When parallel-faced linings are required as illustrated in FIGURE 4, afirst cup 5 is cut out, of which the cutout external face 3 will formthe cut-out internal face of the following cup 5 As soon as the cup 5 isdetached, a circular arc Z is plotted from A intended to cut out thebase of the cup and allowing the cutting 8 to fall. Then, from B theexternal face 3 i cut out, this out also determines the cut of theinterior face of the following cup.

This operation is mentioned in the same manner; centered circular arc Athen centered circular arc B centered circular are A, then centeredcircular arc A and so on.

The curvature of the various surfaces of revolution is adjustable asillustrated in FIGURE 5, depending on the curvature of the tool and thepivoting center of this tool.

In this manner it is possible, by means of a rectilinear tool, to obtaintapered linings 10, the pivoting center being very distant, or else, inthe other extreme case, a crescent .11, the tool having a semi-circularprofile and the pivoting center being at the actual border of thecylinder.

It is not indispensable to utilise the same compass opening, on the onehand for the centers A (base are of the breast) and on the other hand,for the centers B (curvature arc of the breast), FIGURE 5 being anexample of this. But certain advantages are afforded by retaining thesame opening, both for plotting as well as machining, since in thislatter case, a single tool for cutting serves for both arcs.

The angle formed between these two arcs at their intersection has agreat advantage when the cup is intended to be sewn into a brassiere. Ifthis angle is acute (as in FIGURES 1 and 2) it permits the brassieremanufacturer to sew the periphery of the lining between two seams,around the inner lining of his brassiere.

There may be some advantage in the two faces of the lining not beingparallel as illustrated in FIGURE 8.

Certain brassiere makers prefer a cup model that is thicker in thecenter than at the edges (more flexible edges) 14.

Others prefer the edges to be thicker (better fit and more flexiblepoint) 15.

One or other of these models can be easily obtained (or bothalternately, since they complement each other) as shown in FIGURE 8, bycutting the internal faces of the thin-edged linings or packings 14(hence, the external faces of the thick-edged cups 13) from the centersB B B and the external faces of the thin-edged lining 14 (hence, theinternal faces of the thick-edged lining 13) from the centers C C C Bystopping the knife as it goe into the foam, before the end of itstrajectory, a cup is obtained that is still attached to the followingone by its central part as illustrated in FIGURE 4 bis.

By successively thrusting the knife into the rotating foam, at variousdepths, along the cutting lines 3 3 3 an artificial breast is obtainedin a single piece, but composed of a varied number of cups, i.e., anartificial breast made up of several layers 3 3 3 3;; (FIG- 'URE 4 bis).

Rounded-Tip Linings and Linings Provided With a Nipple The flexibilityof polyurethane foam has been mentioned above. It is such that indensities of 35 to 50 kgs./m. it affords two alternatives that can beapplied to all the aforementioned models.

1st Alternative-Rounded-Tip Linings (FIGURE 6) When the shears havecompleted about of their trajectory inside the foam, it is possible,owing to this flexibility to impart to the cutting end of the knife, arecoil movement concomitant with the terminating by the knife of thelast one-fourth of its trajectory.

This causes the knife to rub on the cup during the finishing stage andhas the effect of giving the lining a more rounded tip (as a matter offact, certain brassieres have thi profile) (FIGURE 6).

2nd Alternative-Linings Provided With a Nipple When the shears havearrived at about W of their normal trajectory inside the foam, it ispossible, owing to the flexibility of the latter, to impart to thecutting end of the knife, a forward movement concomitant with theterminating of of this trajectory.

This causes the knife to rub on the block of raw material and give tothe artificial breast, during the finishing stage, a tip which perfectlyimitates the natural nipple of the breast. All shapes of tips can besecured by synchronizing at will the forward movement of the knife pointwith the forward movement of the carrier system.

For a knife about 8 mm. wide, the flexibility of the polyurethane foamenables forward movements of 8 to 10 mm. to be made, which is more thansufiicient for obtaining a breast tip that simulates the natural nipple(FIG- URE 7).

Subsequent Cuts The machined artificial breasts and cups, when seen fromthe front, have a circular aspect and are often used in this state.

Subsequent cuts will impart all possible shapes to them, and moreparticularly:

(1) By cutting them out to the exact shape of a brassiere cup of a giventype.

(2) By cutting out their upper one-fourth for adapting them to abrassiere known as a basket or balloon.

(3) By cutting them out in the middle to obtain what is called asemi-breast intended to be placed in the bottom of any kind of brassierecup and thus increasing the apparent size of the bust to the sameextent.

In these three cut-out shapes, it would be advisable to recut the edgesof the linings so that the latter are very tapered and that thestiffening that they form fits naturally and snugly on the users breast.

Tool Equipment The knife or tool 13 (FIGURES 9, 10, 11) may be made of achilled forged steel blade, of variable Width and reduced thickness,curved exactly according to the radius R of the cup that is required.

This blade is sharpened at the end only.

For machining flexible materials, such as polyurethane foam, a thinblade with a tapered cutting edge, parallel to the cutting line is used.The flexibility of the material enables the shears to sink into thecircular slot that its point makes in the material (FIGURES 9 and 10).

Two Cutting-Out Methods For greater clearness, it is sufficient todescribe these two methods in their most rudimentary form, it beingobvious that all automatic or semi-automatic fittings based on the sameprinciples and utilising the same methods are possible.

(a) First met/10d (FIGURE 13).The tool head turns and the work piece isstationary.

The blade 15 is curved along an arc of radius R and extends over alittle less than a semi-circumference of center 0. This blade penetratesthe work-piece 1 advancing in the direction of arrow 1.

It slides, with no play, in a slot 16 of the like semicircular shape andis retained at its non-cutting end by a spring 17.

This semi-circular slot is welded at its middle to a hollow shaft 18 andthis latter is fixed on a holder carriage 24. This holder carriage isarticulated so that the center 0 of the knife may successively take thepositions of the various centers of cutting A and B. (FIGURES 1, 2, 3,4, 4 bis).

The sliding blade may obviously be drawn in or out of its slot at willby means of a simple handle and cable 25 inside the shaft.

It may easily be understood that the penetration of the cutting edge ofthe blade 15 in the work piece 1 results in cutting the material of thework-piece along an are R of center 0. Because of the rotary motionabout the axis x, y of the holder shaft 18, the blade cuts thework-piece along a surface of revolution.

The tool may be adjusted thereafter to cut lining of various forms suchas those which have been described above.

(b) Second cutting-out method (FIGURE 12).The raw material, and not thetool holder, turns. The blade is welded to a movable tool-holder plate19 which the operator holds by two handles 20 and 21.

A steel point or projection 22, perpendicular to the major plane of thetool-holder, is welded to the toolholder and acts as pivoting axis forthe tool-holder.

A horizontal platform holder carriage 23 moves parallel to the axis ofthe cylindrical mass 1 and has rows of holes AB-C in the platform forreceiving the abovementioned steel point.

These holes are drilled in positions to locate cutting-out centers forthe various surfaces.

By a revolving movement of the tool-holder around this projection 22,the blade may be thrust into the rotating foam. The cylindrical mass orworkpiece -1 is supported on suitable means 39 for rotating theworkpiece. This means 30 may be driven by a suitable drive means 31.Elements '30 and 31 may be formed as part of a lathe or the like.

The invention is not restricted to the forms of embodiment preciselydescribed and shown, and from which other alternatives may be providedwithout departing from the scope of the invention.

What I claim is:

1. Tooling for the manufacture of an article having multiple curvedsurfaces of revolution, comprising means to support a work-piece offlexible and spongy material to be cut, a cutting tool with a cuttingedge having a curvature corresponding to that of the surfaces ofrevolution to be obtained and able to be given a curvilinear motion ofpenetration around its center of curvature, a tool head pivoting in adiametral plane of the cylindrical work-piece and the pivot of which ismade of a center point, a supporting plate for said tool head, saidsupporting plate having several holes for said center point of the toolhead located at the points of the successive centers of rotation of saidtoo-1 head.

2. Tooling for the manufacture of an article having multiple curvedsurfaces of revolution comprising means to support a work-piece offlexible and spongy material to be cut, a cutting tool with a cuttingedge having a curvature corresponding to that of the surface ofrevolution to be obtained and able to be given a curvilinear motion ofpenetration around its center of curvature, a tool head pivoting in adiametral plane of the work-piece and the pivot of which is made of acenter point, a supporting plate for said tool head, said supportingplate having 63 several series of holes for said center point of thetool head, the holes or" each series being located in rows, at thepoints of the successive centers of the tool-head.

3. Tooling for the manufacture of an article having a plurality ofcurved surfaces with equal diameters comprising,

means for supporting a workpiece of flexible, spongy material to beformed into said article,

a cutting tool having a sharp edge shaped to correspond to saidsurfaces, means to rotate said tool by imparting to it a curvilinearmotion around its center of curvature,

a tool holder for supporting said tool as it cuts said workpiece, saidtool holder being pivota-bly mounted on a projection for pivotablemovement in a plane which is diametric to the workpiece,

a supporting base for pivotably supporting said tool holder in aplurality of aligned positions parallel to an axis of rotation of saidworkpiece for penetrating said tool in said workpiece,

said supporting base containing a plurality of openings arranged in aplurality of linear series, with each linear series being parallel tothe workpiece, whereby any of said openings may be engaged with saidprojection and the center of pivo-table support of the tool holderchanged, and

means for rotating the workpiece.

References Cited in the file of this patent UNITED STATES PATENTS389,417 Spofford Sept. 11, 1888 581,377 Veeder Apr. 27, 1897 1,519,344Allemeier Dec. 16, 1924

1. TOOLING FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF AN ARTICLE HAVING MULTIPLE CURVEDSURFACES OF REVOLUTION, COMPRISING MEANS TO SUPPORT A WORK-PIECE OFFLEXIBLE AND SPONGY MATERIAL TO BE CUT, A CUTTING TOOL WITH A CUTTINGEDGE HAVING A CURVATURE CORRESPONDING TO THAT OF THE SURFACES OFREVOLUTION TO BE OBTAINED AND ABLE TO BE GIVEN A CURVILINEAR MOTION OFPENETRATION AROUND ITS CENTER OF CURVATURE, A TOOL HEAD PIVOTING IN ADIAMETRAL PLANE OF THE CYLINDRICAL WORK-PIECE AND THE PIVOT OF WHICH ISMADE OF A CENTER POINT, A SUPPORTING PLATE FOR SAID TOOL HEAD, SAIDSUPPORTING PLATE HAVING SEVERAL HOLES FOR SAID CENTER POINT OF THE TOOLHEAD LOCATED AT THE POINTS OF THE SUCCESSIVE CENTERS OF ROTATION OF SAIDTOOL HEAD.